McDonald’s hamburgers are good for what they are: flat salt pouches filled with sagging vegetables and too much goddamn ketchup. The Filet-O-Fish dispenses with the ketchup problem altogether and instead offers an ostensibly strange and ill-advised, but practically indispensable, combination of square laboratory fish and American cheese, flaky and buttery and fun. (The McGriddle is fun but impractical, layers-wise.) It is by far the best off-burger McDonald’s sandwich, and burgers are overrated anyway.